Ingredient glossary
Six ingredients, in full.
What each one does. Why we picked it. What we left out and why. Every formula on this site is built from this list.
Ingredient 01
Water (Aqua)
What it does: The base — every ingredient is dissolved in or suspended in water. Without it, you'd have nothing to apply.
Why we use it (and not alcohol): Most spray tans use isopropyl or denatured alcohol as their base because alcohol evaporates fast — meaning quick dry-time. The cost: alcohol strips your skin's natural moisture, accelerates fade, and irritates sensitive skin. Water takes a little longer to dry but leaves your skin's barrier intact.
What you'd find in most other formulas: SD Alcohol 40, Isopropyl Alcohol, Denatured Alcohol (Alcohol Denat.). All three are common in drugstore self-tanners.
Ingredient 02
Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice)
What it does: Hydrates and soothes the skin while the DHA reacts. Reduces the tightness, dryness, and faint itch that lower-quality self-tans cause.
Why we use it: A self-tan reaction is technically a controlled oxidation on the skin's surface. It dehydrates the top layer slightly. Aloe is the gentlest, most-studied counter to that — non-comedogenic, safe on sensitive skin, safe during pregnancy.
What you'd find in most other formulas: Silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane) for slip, or glycerin for hydration. We use neither — aloe handles both jobs without coating the skin.
Ingredient 03
DHA (Dihydroxyacetone)
What it does: The actual tanning active. DHA is a simple 3-carbon sugar that reacts with amino acids in the top layer of dead skin cells (the stratum corneum), producing melanoidins — the brown pigment that creates the tan color.
Why we use it: DHA is the only FDA-approved self-tan active for topical use, and the most-studied of any sunless tan ingredient. Used at the right concentration in a clean base, it gives a natural, gradual color that develops over 4–6 hours and lasts 7–10 days.
What it's not: A sunscreen. A self-tan does not protect you from UV. Always wear SPF.
Safety: Topical DHA has decades of safe-use data. The one caution: avoid inhaling mist during spray application (we use a mask in the studio). Not advised for the mucous membranes — eyes, mouth, internal use.
Ingredient 04
Sodium Benzoate
What it does: A natural preservative that prevents bacterial and yeast growth in water-based formulas.
Why we use it: A six-ingredient formula needs a preservative — without one, water-based products grow microbes within days. Sodium benzoate is the gentlest, most-studied option: it's naturally occurring in fruits like cranberries, prunes, and apples; it's FDA-approved as a food and cosmetic preservative; it's well-tolerated by sensitive skin.
What you'd find in most other formulas: Phenoxyethanol, parabens (methyl-, propyl-, butylparaben), or formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (DMDM Hydantoin, Imidazolidinyl Urea). All of these have larger safety question marks than sodium benzoate.
Ingredient 05
Potassium Sorbate
What it does: A second preservative that complements sodium benzoate by targeting molds and fungi.
Why we use it: Sodium benzoate handles bacteria; potassium sorbate handles mold. Together they cover the full range without needing parabens or phenoxyethanol. Like sodium benzoate, it's naturally derived (sorbic acid is found in rowanberries), FDA-approved as a food preservative, and gentle on skin.
Used in: Cheese, wine, baked goods, baby food. Same compound, food-grade purity in our formula.
Ingredient 06 (Mousse only)
Caramel
What it does: Natural color guide — the brown tint you see when applying the Mousse. It lets you see exactly where you've applied so you don't miss a spot. Rinses off cleanly in your first shower, leaving the developed DHA color underneath.
Why we use it (not FD&C dyes): Most self-tans use FD&C dyes (Yellow 5, Red 40, Blue 1) as their color guide. These are petroleum-derived, banned in cosmetics in parts of Europe, and linked to skin sensitivity in some users. Plus they stain fabrics permanently — that orange palm-print on your bath mat.
Our caramel: Food-grade, water-soluble, washes out of fabrics, gluten-free. Same compound that gives Coca-Cola its color.
Note: The Tanning Water has no color guide — no caramel — for a totally invisible application. Five ingredients instead of six.
What we never use
The ingredients we left out — and why.
- Alcohols (SD Alcohol 40, Isopropyl, Denatured) — strips skin's moisture barrier
- FD&C Dyes (Yellow 5, Red 40, Blue 1) — petroleum-derived, sensitizing, stains fabrics
- Erythrulose — a slower-acting tanning sugar; common in formulas that promise "longer-lasting" tans, but pairs poorly with DHA and worsens the orange tone
- Parabens (methyl-, propyl-, butylparaben) — endocrine-disruption questions, replaced by gentler preservatives
- Propylene Glycol — common allergen, irritates sensitive skin
- Phenoxyethanol — preservative with skin-sensitization data
- Silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane) — coats the skin, can trap DHA and create patchy fade
- PEGs (Polyethylene Glycol) — process contamination concerns (1,4-dioxane)
- Synthetic fragrance — undisclosed mixture of dozens of compounds, a top allergen across all skincare
- Gluten — for celiac and gluten-sensitive customers
- Nuts (and nut-derived oils in the tanning formula) — for allergic customers
